Italy's best-kept secrets: The dreamy island of Ponza
The sound of the waves, the scent of the salty sea, the hair, messed by soft seabreeze – for me, the Italian summer is at its sweetest by the sea.
For years I kept asking my Roman friends about their favourite holiday destinations in Italy, and repeatedly one place was mentioned: the island of Ponza.
It has been one of the best-kept secret vacation destinations among locals since ancient times. Ponza is called Capri without the tourists; the island has a similar nature, but it´s less crowded, less touristy and in my opinion, the vibe is more authentic.
When I finally had the chance to visit this paradise – mamma mia – my heart was stolen. Crystal clear waters, rich flora and fauna, low-key atmosphere and warmhearted locals made me wonder if I had sailed to a wonderland.
Ponza became my new favourite holiday spot also because it’s quite easy to reach from Rome. I took a 1-hour train from Rome to south to Gaeta-Formia station and a 2,5-hour ferry trip from the port of Formia to Ponza. Other ports are San Felice Circeo, Terracina and Anzio in the region of Lazio and Mergellina in Naples.
When I arrived on the island, I escaped to the sea glittering in unreal turquoise and emerald green shades. My only plan was to spend most of the time discovering the nature, so I walked straight to the harbor and randomly booked the first possible boat trip around the island. I got lucky since multiple companies offer different kinds of trips, with various price ranges, boats and vibes. With only 35 euros, I got a 6-hour boat trip with at least 10 stops for swimming and snorkeling in the most beautiful spots. Also, lunch and local wine from Ponza were included.
And the next day? Back to the sea, of course!
Ponza is the biggest of the group of islands called the Pontine Islands. I also wanted to visit another island called Palmarola, a 20-minute boat ride away from Ponza, but the route was closed every day due to rough weather at the sea.
This nearly uninhabited island has wild nature with a rocky coast, natural grottos and a couple of small sandy beaches. It’s a must-go for me on my next trip, since even French explorer Jacques Cousteau once said that Palmarola is the most beautiful island in the Mediterranean Sea.
Besides the wild authentic nature, the best thing was the warmhearted, sunny southern people.
Instead of a hotel, I decided to stay in a private guest house to get closer to the daily life of the locals. My guesthouse, located in a little village called La Forna, was one of these pastel-coloured houses on the hill with a view overlooking the sea and the island of Palmarola.
Most locals I met lived in Rome or Naples, and they stayed in their island houses only during summer since in the winter months the sea is rough, and the island is silent, cold and windy.
They seemed to enjoy a similar, chill island life as me; just living in the moment and admiring the stunning nature and sunsets.
I was so mesmerized by the wild nature that I completely forgot to think of any restaurant options until I was starving.
The restaurant scene on the island is quite small, so I quickly discovered a handful of casual restaurants and one Michelin-starred restaurant Acqua Pazza – all based on seafood. I almost got in trouble since I am vegetarian and allergic to seafood. Still, luckily, as I was in Italy, it was easy to find a nice pizzeria offering also local wines from the island. A few more steps down the narrow streets, and I found cute, tiny groceries selling fruits and vegetables riped under the Italian sun – so after all, the island treated me well.
Text & photos by Hertta Hiltunen